Granular cold-water-swelling starch as a clean-label oil structurant

Technology
In development
University

Adaptation of cold-water-swelling starch technology for personal care oil thickening. The method uses pre-gelatinized corn starch to structure anhydrous oil phases, offering a clean-label, silicone-free alternative for cosmetics with tunable rheology and compatibility with standard processes.

Overview

The granular cold-water-swelling (GCWS) starch offers a clean-label solution for structuring oils in personal care products. This innovative technology uses pre-gelatinized corn starch granules to thicken anhydrous oil phases, providing an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic additives. The GCWS starch creates structured oils through a network of swollen starch granules that effectively trap oil, delivering a texture comparable to butter with a storage modulus (G') range of 65,000-879,000 Pa. This solution meets the growing demand for silicone-free thickeners in the cosmetics industry.

Technical specifications
  • Components: 100% corn starch, no synthetic additives
  • Rheology: Tunable via pre-gelatinization degree and hydration level
  • Process Compatibility: Suitable for standard manufacturing temperatures
  • Applications: Ideal for personal care products requiring structured oils with enhanced sensory properties such as spreadability and skin feel
  • Key Features: Effective oil structuring at practical concentrations, scalable preparation method
Technology readiness level

This technology is at TRL 4, indicating that it has been validated in a lab setting. The technology is set for further adaptation and testing with cosmetic-grade oils, focusing on optimizing sensory properties and stability. The preparation method is ready for scaling up, with plans to establish a cosmetic-grade starch supply chain and negotiate licensing or supply terms.


About Cornell University

Cornell University is a comprehensive private, land-grant research university with campuses in Ithaca and New York City, combining significant scale with cross-disciplinary breadth. Industry connects through open-access user facilities and prototyping labs, pilot-scale testbeds, and a research and technology park that provide pathways from discovery to demonstration. A statewide extension network and integration with a major hospital system enable real-world deployment, while a graduate campus embedded in New York City’s tech corridor provides direct access to startups, venture investors, and corporate R&D teams. Research is supported by competitive federal funding from agencies such as the National Science Foundation, National Institutes of Health, the Department of Energy, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture. A dedicated technology transfer office streamlines IP management, licensing, startup formation, and corporate partnerships across campuses.

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